"The great aim of education is not knowledge but action" - Herbert Spencer

Seeing Another Side

The last couple of months have opened my eyes up to different forms of art--like photography and film--that I never thought much about before.

Through different exhibits going on in Yerevan and being around some incredibly talented artists, I've become even more exposed to the power of communicating beyond mere words.

Here are a few pictures from a recent photo exhibit titled mOther Armenia held at the Armenian Center for Contemporary Experimental Art in Yerevan. For the first time ever, the showcase featured the work of 10 female photographers telling stories of Armenian life from their perspective.

Many of the themes they covered were of taboo issues and topics that are often ignored. Topics like non-combat deaths in the army, people living with disabilities, violence against women, the creative use of everyday items, and those rejected as outcasts or misfits by society.

Just walking through the exhibit and seeing the photostories showed me a side of society here I had never seen before.

In their Honor

This blog is dedicated to the memory of Allen Yekikian and Sose Thomassian.

A couple of months ago, me and Allen were on the same flight together from LA to Yerevan, both of us journeying into a new chapter in our lives.

That long and usually grueling flight couldn't have passed by any quicker. Me and Allen had nothing but deep and insightful (usually from his end) discussions about Armenia, technology, health, and social justice.

What grabbed me the most about our discussion this time, though, was Allen's heightened determination to let his example reverberate beyond just his personal circle.

He told me he was going to start a blog called How to Make it in Armenia. He wanted to show and share with the world that moving here was not something insane or heroic, but something possible and beneficial.

A couple of days later, I told him that he inspired me to do the same thing and asked him what he thought about the name and concept of Louder Than Words, a blog about actions being taken on the ground by people themselves, not just the words of leaders and commentators.

He was ecstatic and encouraged me to move forward without a second thought.

Since their tragic passing, I've hesitated from posting anything new.

But I keep thinking about those conversations and realize that the best thing I can do is to honor both of their memory by passing on the spirit and cause they represented.

Allen and Sose, thank you for the inspiration. You are sorely missed but never forgotten.

How to Really Celebrate Labor Day

Today was May 1 in Armenia, an official state holiday meant to supposedly commemorate Labor Day. Like a lot of other holidays and habits in Armenia, this one seems to simply be a relic of the Soviet past.

Despite this being a significant international holiday (which we should remember originated in solidarity with the 1886 Haymarket Martyrs in Chicago and the struggle for an 8-hour day), there was hardly any trace of focusing attention on the dire conditions of working people or celebrating any sort of labor movement to speak of.

However, putting aside the failure to truly mark the holiday, there is an even more important lesson and commemoration that should have been celebrated in Armenia this May 1st--which was almost equally ignored.

This May 1st marks the 1-year anniversary of the victory of Masthots Park.

After over 2-months of activists occupying the park and mass protesting against the administration's attempted construction of retail boutiques in the middle of Yerevan's few remaining green spaces, the President of the country was forced to personally come out on May 1, 2012, and call off the unlawful construction. The park was saved.

This movement was, I think, one of the most significant developments in recent Armenian history. It should by no means be glossed over.

Not only did this episode demonstrate the true power of citizens when they organize to affect change, it also instilled a completely fresh set of locally-based values and ideas which were glaringly absent from public discourse prior--ideas such as grassroots action, environmental sustainability, rule of law, and public interest over private profit.

The activists involved in the action were overwhelmingly youth. They disavowed any sort of leadership and eloquently called for citizens to take their future into their own hands. They pointed out that looking towards political leaders or saviors would not change the reality in the country. The change, they explained, starts with each and every citizen taking responsibility for themselves and making the change within them.

They also effectively shined the spotlight on the oligarchic strata running affairs in the country, getting to the root cause of problems, not just their symptoms.

Needless to say, the outpouring of support was overwhelming. Everybody from local citizens to TV personalities came out to the park to show their support. Even Diaspora organizations took note and got involved with the initiative.

And in the end, they won.

A group of youth forced the President to come to the park and call the whole scheme off.

Today, the park can be seen greener than ever, with families, couples, and visitors enjoying its tranquil environment.

It should be remembered by all who pass by and enjoy the park where that privilege comes from. It comes from the direct efforts of activists and citizens who took a stand to resist unlawful decisions being made around them.

It is my hope that the lessons of Mashtots will not be forgotten; that it's spirit will not only be carried on, but expanded and strengthened.

Perhaps it is time, from now on, to turn Labor Day in Armenia into a holiday which actually lives up to its meaning; to use the holiday to celebrate the power of popular action and the public interest.

The victory of Mashtots Park is a great place to start.

You're Not Artsier Than Us

Art in and around Yerevan.

On the Importance of Action

All along, the overarching criticism of Raffi Hovannisian’s post-election protest campaign has always been his lack of strategy and poor planning. The haphazard, unorganized nature of his activities came to a head this past Tuesday: Inauguration Day.

At his noon ‘alternative’ inauguration, Hovannisian continued his railing against the authorities but made no mention of any radical or immediate actions. In fact, he generated disappointment from the crowd when he called on them to return at 6 PM for another gathering and was heckled when he announced another rally next Friday to discuss his party’s platform for the upcoming Yerevan elections.

People angrily yelled “Heema! Heema!” (Now! Now!) in response and demanded immediate action.

Later, at the 6 PM gathering, this state of affairs continued and, in response, Hovannisian announced a march to the Presidential Palace on the spot.

What resulted was a completely spontaneous and energetic, yet futile and utterly disorganized march on the streets of Yerevan.

The defenseless crowd (including many elderly, women and children) was met by hundreds of riot police who had the full force of the state at their disposal. Activists were arrested, protesters pushed back, and even some of Raffi’s team got caught in the melee.

It was a standoff with no direction or plan whatsoever.

At one point, Jirair Seifilian and his supporters parted through the crowd in an orderly line, suggesting some sort of organization might develop. However, they were literally disbanded in a matter of minutes once they reached the front, as police advanced on the protestors and wielded them back in response to objects being hurled.

Meanwhile, Raffi disappeared from the scene (we found out later that he went to the Genocide Memorial with the Chief of Police).

None of it made any sense.

By most accounts, the confrontation on Tuesday was a failure. Indeed, many commentators in Armenia have referred to it as the death knell in Hovannisian’s movement—and perhaps even his career.

However, while I certainly share in the criticism of what transpired, I personally think the day’s events may have some positive effects, as well.

Taking the protest from the arena of Liberty Square directly onto the streets and toward the center of power was a symbolically profound statement initiated by the masses themselves. The whole episode was an example of the people leading the leader, and expressing disapproval of the presidency first-hand.

Furthermore, such action, despite its ineffective and volatile nature, is a raw outpouring of the people’s uncontrollable anger with the regime and an important manifestation of sincere passion. It is better to act and show those in power the level of hostility the public holds for them than to continue holding rhetorical rallies and empty victory gatherings.

In the end, it is my hope that such popular actions will serve as a warning to authorities about the level of stringent opposition in the country and hopefully provide lessons about more refined strategy for future activism on the ground.

Of course, true change will not come from popular protests or mobilization alone. It will only come from the one thing which has always been missing in Armenia’s reality: ORGANIZATION.

The force and passion of the people for a better future must be channeled into an actual mass movement that can affect change. The disparate groups in the opposition and the disgruntled masses must all be unified in thought, word and deed. No more relying on leaders or saviors. The people must be organized from the ground up toward concrete steps which force healthy changes in the country.

This takes hard work (far beyond just rallies and ballot boxes) and will not happen over night—but there is no other way. There never has been. There are no magic buttons. Gatherings and platitudes must be replaced by grassroots organization and genuine democratic action.

Barring anything short of that, the regime will continue to maintain its grip on power and perpetuate its regressive policies.  

Give the Kids a Break

When I started Breaking as a teenager, it was something I generally kept secluded from the Armenian community.

The idea that my parents or community members would be morally (let alone financially) supportive of seeing their child doing a dance that was out of the norm and completely outside the confines of our traditional culture was unfathomable.

You can then probably imagine how pleasantly surprised I was to see a packed auditorium full of Armenian parents cheering for their kids in a Breaking contest this past weekend.

The competition was hosted by the "Aleks Style" Breaking school, which is located in the Arabkir region of Yerevan. It was held exclusively for the over 60 students that go to the school. I was one of the invited judges and got a front row seat for the daylong contest which featured four separate categories: kids, juniors, girls, and older boys.

Aside from the dancing, I couldn't stop looking into the audience to see how the parents reacted to their kids battling it out and putting their moves out on the floor. It was great to see the pride and joy on all of their faces as they watched their kids have fun and compete with respect.

I should note that this is a school where parents pay for their kids to go to learn the dance (something which doesn't even exist in LA, to my knowledge)--and it is by no means the only one. I can count at least 10 separate schools here where kids go on a weekly basis to learn and practice their skills. 

The interest is high. There are literally hundreds of kids Breaking in Armenia.

Although I was impressed by what I saw, I also have to admit that the "school system" of teaching and practicing Breaking definitely gives the dance a different flavor. There is something that is taken away when all the Breakers know is instruction and regiment, with very little social dancing.

Even the competition was very tournament-like, with an official award ceremony at the end and everything. The dancing and expression element was not totally absent, but it was definitely lacking.

Nevertheless, there was a lot of talent and unquestionable love for the dance in the building.

Next stop is the national "Grand Street Jam" coming up this Saturday, which I'll also be judging. The top five Breakers from the competition will be going to Georgia in April to represent Armenia at the Red Bull BC One Caucasus qualifier.

Should be interesting.

Youth Sit-In Freedom Square

Parallel to Raffi Hovannisan's hunger strike is a diverse and active group of youth who have been staging a sit-in in Freedom Square, calling for Serzh Sarkissian to step down.

“We all know that Raffi won the elections,” says Narek Varazdatyan, a staunch young ally of Hovnannisian participating in the sit-in. “We are calling for Serzh Sarkissian to vacate Baghramian 26 [the Presidential Palace]. I personally will be sitting here until he leaves.”

The youth number about 30, give or take.

They hold placards, sing songs, and dance in protest of the fraudelent elections and in support of a democratic Armenia.

Whether coincidentally or not, I found them sitting singing "Gini Lits" (the song dedicated to the assassanitation of Talaat Pasha) a day before Soghomon Tehlirian's famous operation's anniversary.

Some among them are Heritage Party youth, while others are from the ARF, People's Party, Armenian National Congress, or various civic initiatives or just concerned citizens.

For me, these youth represent a more hopeful model for change than the individualistic approach taken by political parties and figures on the political scene in Armenia. Through their collective, unified, and horizontal activism, they present a more healthy alternative and road map for where the opposition needs to go than anything else. Furthermore, they are basing their action on a clear sense of national responsibility and a desire for a future based on justice and deepening democracy.

Mad Force in Dynamo

I finally got a chance to get my first Breaking practice in the other day since arriving to Armenia. My close friends from the Mad Force Crew invited me to their bi-weekly session at the Dynamo Sports Complex in Yerevan.

A little known fact is that Armenia has the largest street dance scene in the Caucasus, with hundreds of dancers and countless practices happening every day of the week.

When I first met Mad Force Crew in 2005, there were only 1 or 2 other groups in the country with maybe no more than 50 dancers total in the city. These guys and girls kept pushing the dance, even when people looked at it with an evil eye, and now it has ballooned to an extent nobody expected.

There are even large-scale competitions and events happening regularly, with the next one slated for late-March.

This practice was in a studio on the basement floor of a large sports complex that featured a boxing ring, workout room and stadium next door.  It was a mixture of people practicing individually and the more experienced dancers teaching the younger kids basics.

It felt good to get out on the floor and shake off the cob webs. Seeing the younger generation doing something positive and improving upon what was passed down to them was also inspiring. 

Yerevan is definitely active.